Number 232 - August 2002

Trimming and Cutting for Dummies Like Me
By Bruce Switalla, (bswit@usa.net) Coastal Area Users Group (CAUG)
Since it will be a while before I learn how to get my graphic printouts to line up correctly on pre-perforated paper, I decided to simply save money on mistakes and take matters into my own hands. So, for the February graphics SIG, I briefly demonstrated how I make business cards, greeting cards, and photo prints without the perforated paper that I can't always figure out how to line up.     For now, I use Epson Matte Heavyweight paper (52-lb) for everything. It makes a thin but acceptable business card, and it doesn't stick to glass photo frames. As shown at the meeting, it yields rich, dark colors too. For business card software, I use Print Artist and can get it to print TWELVE cards per 8"x11" sheet with hairline crop marks that get split in two and don't show. The pre-perforated business card sheets I've seen yield only ten and thus leave wasted paper.     For business cards, greeting cards, and photos alike, I use the following equipment. I place an 11"x15" Good Cook Flexible Cutting Board (about $2.95) from H-E-B's cooking utensils section down on my table surface. Yes, it gets cut marks in it, but that's what it's for! I heard at the meeting that a fabric store has more costly cutting mats that heal after you cut into them thus preventing the knife from following a previous groove. To cut, I use an Exacto knife (from Hobby Lobby) and keep it covered with its plastic cap when not in use. For the projects without crop marks like photos, I use 2 sharp pencil marks to determine where to cut. I place the knife on the mark first, then slide a cork-backed metal ruler (available cheap at Office Depot) against the knife at my first point. Then, holding the ruler down with my finger out of the way of the cut, I place the knife-point in the other pencil mark, pivoting the ruler this	time against the knife. I consistently keep the knife straight up while watching my fingers. I cut 2 or 3 times just past where I need to, so the side cuts will come apart when finished. I got a beautiful 5"x7" mahogany-colored wood frame from Dollar General for $2. And 8"x10"s are $3 and $4. By the way, if you go with glossy paper, you cannot let it touch the glass, so you will need to place a spacer, like a mat, around the photo (a job for the pro's). Advanced Advice     If you can control how large your photo prints out, you may opt for 4"x6" or so with white borders that you leave when you cut to 5"x7", since a 5"x7" wood frame will cover a quarter inch on all sides, and ink is expensive. Measure the frame's inside dimensions for white border (cutting purposes) and from the front of the frame measure for printing purposes but be sure no white will show after framing. Better to think this all out and practice on Crayola-colored notebook paper than mess up a print. Measure twice     One thing I didn't cover at the meeting was folding greeting cards. I place two pencil marks down the center of where I need to fold Then I put the ruler edge over the marks and use a pizza cutter roller to crease neatly the fold I need. Care is needed to avoid rolling away from the ruler's edge. The resulting fold looks professional!     There is no restriction against any non-profit group using the article as long as it is kept in context, with proper credit given to the author. This article is brought to you by the Editorial Committee of the Association of Personal Computer User Groups (APCUG), an International organization. Please let Bruce know if you use his article.
Number 232 - August 2002